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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    1

    Default Patching Hole for Heating Oil Piping Through Basement Wall

    There is a huge hole, about the size of one cinder block, that the heating oil tank piping goes through in my basement (see attached pictures). It follows under my front porch concrete slab and "elbows" up to the surface, to the oil fill outlets. Obviously, this needs to be closed up (from the inside basement side) to prevent "critters" from entering into my basement. However, I'm not sure what is the best approach. I'm guessing expanding foam wouldn't work, since the hole is too large. I could patch it with some partial bricks or cinder blocks, but I'm not sure if this would interfere with any future work that may be done on the pipes. The pipes go through dirt and have a pretty good open area around it, so I'm wondering if I need to throw some gravel around it. I'd appreciate any advice that anyone in the know can give me. Thanks.
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    6,598

    Default Re: Patching Hole for Heating Oil Piping Through Basement Wall

    I didn't see the photo you attached, but generally speaking, to fill a hole the size of a block requires the use of a block or a trimmed block and mortar. Bricks will do too.

    Then you can use expanding foam for any remaining tiny openings.
    If you need to access the hole in the future, just knock out the block.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    162

    Default Re: Patching Hole for Heating Oil Piping Through Basement Wall

    I agree with dj1----pieces of cinder block or pieces of brick are mortared in as the common way of covering up the hole; however, it is an absolute must that you first wrap some flexible material around the pipes as they go thru the cinder block hole so that any movement of the piping due to temperature changes, expansion/contraction, oil delivery, etc., will not damage the pipes or crack the filled material so that water or critters gets inside the basement---in other words, the pipes must be allowed to move slightly, as they always do.

    Thus, for the width of the cinder block (usually about 6" or so), the pipes can be wrapped in any number of flexible materials----anything lying around the house will do----Mortite, wood putty, roofing cement, flexible sheet foam insulation, etc.etc.

    I wouldn't even give up on the expanding foam idea---but first you'd have to fashion 2 small baffles of wood or rigid foam board, etc.,---tie them to each other with flexible copper or steel wire---you could then spray the foam into this "mold"---the baffle on the outside would have to remain there (so if you use wood, make it pressure treated), the inside baffle could be removed once the foam cures----you wouldn't have to use any flex material if you used the expanding foam, since the foam itself is flexible even when it cures.
    Last edited by Pelton; 11-04-2011 at 03:43 PM.

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