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  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Posts
    99

    Default Re: Radiator removal

    Quote Originally Posted by perchinonlakeerie View Post
    @brook world

    not all steam systems have a return line. there is what is refered to a one pipe reverse return in which case the steam is on top and condensate on the botton
    I made a statement I wasn't qualified to make . . . intutitively, a hot water (hydronic) system seem to require supply & feed. I have a closed loop 1964 water system with feed & supply which may be entirely different in operating principle than the OP's.

    Growing up, I lived in a 1900 multi-dwelling apartment in the slums, and the radiators seem to be steam fed because of the whistling sounds and pressure relief values.

    So basically I don't know the OP has . . . and I don't mind being corected.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    South*East
    Posts
    1,210

    Default Re: Radiator removal

    Quote Originally Posted by perchinonlakeerie View Post
    @brook world

    not all steam systems have a return line. there is what is refered to a one pipe reverse return in which case the steam is on top and condensate on the botton
    A one pipe reverse return is a two pipe hot water system. The two pipe steam system that I believe your referring to uses stem traps.

    John

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    161

    Default Re: Radiator removal

    Lobo74:

    I agree with John and MLBSF.

    The most expedient way to temporarily remove the rad is to shut off the elec switch and water supply valve at the boiler & drain approx 1 gallon of water from the drain valve at the bottom of the boiler.

    Depending on how high the rad in question is located in the house, this is usually enough to drop the water level at the rad & you can remove it (first, always take a screwdriver & open the rad bleed valve (this will help drop any water in the piping to the lower level) loosen one of the rad valves to see if any water comes out---if some still comes out, drain another gallon at the boiler drain); pull the rad away from the wall & fittings---there is always approx 1 gallon of black, gooey liquid that looks like used motor oil at the base of the rad---tilt one end of the rad with a 2 X 3 or steel crow bar & drain the goo into a flat pan; temporarily stuff a rag on either side so the goo doesn't get on the floor or carpet.

    Since it is still mostly warm this time of year, you can probably finish the floor job during daylight hours, reconnect the rad, reopen the boiler water supply valve & add a gallon or 2 at the boiler with the fast fill handle on the pressure reducing valve.

    Check the boiler gauge for a reading of at least 10 to 12 psi & throw the elec switch to fire up the boiler---you will have to bleed out the air that entered the system when you removed the rad, so open each bleed valve on all the rads & baseboard till the air is out; always bleed the rads situated highest in the system first---any air will migrate to the highest points in the system.

    If the Floor Job Will Take More Than a Day:

    If the floor job is going to take several days before you can put back the rad, you can follow the procedure to remove the rad, & use an approx 3' length of 3/4" copper tubing or PEX tubing to shunt the space where the rad used to be, & fashion a fitting for both the supply side & the return side.

    More than a Day, No Shunt:

    Since the supply pipe has a shutoff, this almost always means that your system piping is NOT a single-pipe series setup & you can obtain caps for both the supply & return piping if you don't want to bother with a shunt---follow the gallon drain procedure as noted above.

    Caveat: Although the supply side of your rad has a shutoff, radiator shutoffs almost always have a 1/8" bleed hole inside the valve---this is put there to allow a trickle flow thru the rad on cold winter days in order to prevent rad freezeup; thus, a compression fitting may have to be purchased to completely seal both sides of the supply/return----check the rad shutoff valve when you drain the system, if there is no 1/8" hole in the valve you only have to buy a fitting for the return.

    Reconnecting the Rad: If the supply/return pipes are copper & you have soldering skills, it's usually easier to just cut the fittings off at the neck & later attach 3/4" or 1/2" sweat fittings when you're ready to reconnect the rad; first remove any paint & crud with emery cloth to get a copper shine, then solder the connections---this tactic will also work for an extended floor job; cut the fittings off at the neck & sweat solder a cap on each side.



    http://highperformancehvac.com/boiler-water-loops.html
    Last edited by Pelton; 11-08-2011 at 02:24 PM.

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