Staining pine porch
We just replaced the pine floor on the porch of our 100 year old house. We tried one water borne stain and it did not take well. I have since heard that stain does not take well on pine due to the pine tar. Is that true? Also, does anyone have a stain recommendation? By the way, I live in New Jersey (not sure if climate is relevant).
I have heard that water borne is the way to go because it has lower VOC and that overtime oil stains can grow mold. Also is this true?
Thanks for the advice!
Re: Staining pine porch
Oil stains which contain linseed oil can indeed support mildew. Some manufacturers have dropped linseed oil from their formulations for this reason.There are many brands which are linseed oil free.
New smooth lumber often has a "mill glaze" on it. During the milling, the rapidly spinning planer blades heat and polish the wood, effectively sealing the surface of the wood. This is more prominent on cedar or redwood, but can occur with other wood types. The sealed surface prevents the stain from deeply penetrating into the wood.
You can test for mill glaze by merely sprinkling a little water on the surface. If it beads up and sits on the surface for more than several minutes, it probably has mill glaze. Wood ready for staining should rapiidly absorb water. If water is repelled, so will any stain be repelled and only sit on the surface.
You can open up the wood by: exposing it to rain and sun for several months, sanding the wood, or by use of chemicals such as oxylic acid. Oxylic acid is the main ingrediant in many deck cleaners.
Once the grain has been opened up, you should have little problem with either oil or water stains. One of the main advantages to oil stains is that they do not form a surface film and will never peel. However, they do require an almost yearly re-fresher coat. Water based stains generally last longer, but require more effort to fix if they fail.