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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Louisiana (Cajun Country USA)
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    141

    Default calling all plumbers.....questions

    Hi all.....

    I have a few questions.

    1 - Between Plumb Pak & Dura Pro toilet tank elbow, is one necessarily better than the other? Also, between 22 ga. & 17 ga., which one is the thicker metal?

    2 - The tub faucet pictured below is original to my claw foot tub and I'm considering re using it. I'm thinking of sending it off to be rechromed. My question is this.....(and I don't know if it leaks or not) once I unscrew those large nuts at the base of the handle stems, I can completely unscrew the handle assembly out of the faucet. There is a rubber grommet at the bottom. Is that the only thing I should replace or should something else be changed in there besides the grommet?

    3 - The spigot on this faucet set.....my dad told me he thought that the stepped part was meant to have a hose attached to it? Is that so? I looked up these and you can buy reproductions and several of them had this same stepped piece. On mine, the stepped piece unscrews and can be removed.



    peace,
    Sophie

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    208

    Default Re: calling all plumbers.....questions

    Sophie:

    I don't recognize either of the names you mentioned, but in all liklihood both are made in China, so I'd buy both and return the one you don't use.

    Whenever it comes to "gauge" sizes, the smaller the gauge number, the larger the wire thickness or sheet metal thickness. So, 17 guage would always be thicker than 22 gauge regardless of whether you're talking about wire or sheet metal.

    At the bottom of the "cartridge" will be a rubber "washer" (not a grommet). That rubber washer will be held in place with a brass "bibb screw". You should replace the rubber washer with a new one, and replace the brass bibb screw with a stainless steel one that has the same thread so it can screw into the same hole in the bottom of the cartridge as the brass screw did. If you can get new seats for this faucet, I'd buy two new seats for it as well in case they're ever needed.

    Your dad is right. The kind of connection you have on the end of that "spout" is called a "hose barb connection", like this:



    The above brass adapter allows you to connect a hose to threaded metal piping. All that's needed is a hose clamp to tighten around the hose once the end of that hose has been pushed onto the "hose barb". The "harpoon shape" of that hose barb connection is intended to prevent the hose from slipping off.

    Before you spend too much money on that old faucet, I'd e-mail those same pictures to this company:

    http://www.kissler.com/

    to see if they sell parts (including the seats) for it. Ask them to identify the manufacturer if you don't know who made it.

    Kissler & Sons is a company in New York that carries parts for obsolete plumbing faucets. When a company stops making a faucet, Kissler contacts the company that previously supplied parts to the original faucet manufacturer, and has that company produce those same parts for Kissler.

    Crane discontinued their 8 inch tub & shower faucet over 20 years ago, and they no longer stock any parts for it. That was a problem for me as I have Crane 8 inch Tub & Shower faucets in each of the 21 bathrooms in my building. And, because of the architecture of the building, if I needed to replace a tub & shower faucet, I'd have to go through either a ceramic tiled wall, or a concrete block wall, neither of which is a desireable option. However, I can still buy new parts for those old Crane faucets, including the escutcheons and seats. If you know how Crane Dial-ese faucets work, it won't come as a surprise to you that the seats need to be replaced once in a blue moon. In the entire city of Winnipeg, only one replacement Crane seat was ordered from the early 1950's when Crane came out with the Dial-ese cartridge until Crane discontinued their tub & shower faucet.

    About 2 years ago, I bought 60 escutcheons for these faucets at about $3 each from Kissler, and TWO replacement bronze seats for about $5 each. I figure that's a good deal since, if it weren't for Kissler, I wouldn't be able to get any of these parts at all. I now have a lifetime supply of replacement parts for my tub & shower faucets.

    Check that you can still buy spindles, seats and the packings for your faucet cartridges from Kissler. If you can't, then I'd be inclined to chuck that old faucet in the garbage, and buy a new Moen or Delta single lever faucet for your tub & shower.
    Last edited by Nestor; 07-09-2011 at 01:25 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    5,084

    Default Re: calling all plumbers.....questions

    1. Dura pro and plumb pak - they are brands of angle stops, aren't they? if they are, use either one for your toilet.
    Second part: The lower the gauge number, the thicker the metal is.

    2. where can you find parts for a faucet which is supposed to be in the Smithsonian?
    When you say rubber grommet, do you mean rubber washer?

    3. "Fathers know best" - your dad could be right, it could be the early version of the modern hand held shower head. Or it may not...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    South*East
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    1,168

    Default Re: calling all plumbers.....questions

    You can not use that faucet on a leg tub if it is mounted directly on the tub. All plumbing codes require the faucet opening to be above the flood rim of the fixture they are serving. That faucet was used long before we had codes. Take a look a any new faucet for leg tubs and you will see they have a goose neck that extends above the flood rim. That particular one is the worst offender because a hose can be connected to it.

    John

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Louisiana (Cajun Country USA)
    Posts
    141

    Default Re: calling all plumbers.....questions

    Thanks for the input everyone!

    I knew that for wire gauge the smaller the number the bigger the wire, I just didn't know if the same applied for metal. So are there any toilet tank elbows made in the good ole' USA?

    And yes, I meant washer....just used the wrong word.

    It is sounding like maybe I should just purchase a new faucet set for this tub. This one was original to the Crane tub and is a Crane faucet, so I was hoping to refurbish it.
    peace,
    Sophie

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Louisiana (Cajun Country USA)
    Posts
    141

    Default Re: calling all plumbers.....questions

    Dealing with toilet parts now.......I know what the item on the left is, but not the right. Anyone?

    peace,
    Sophie

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    South*East
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    1,168

    Default Re: calling all plumbers.....questions

    It's call a spud. But there is also a nut and washer that goes with it.

    http://www.amazon.com/Toilet-Urinal-.../dp/B00068YCNW

    John

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Louisiana (Cajun Country USA)
    Posts
    141

    Default Re: calling all plumbers.....questions

    Thanks John. Where does this part go? Keep in mind I am dealing with wall mounted tanks with the elbow between the bowl and the tank. My initial guess was that it went in the back of the toilet bowl, I just wasn't sure exactly how.
    peace,
    Sophie

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    South*East
    Posts
    1,168

    Default Re: calling all plumbers.....questions

    Your correct it goes in the back of the bowl. Then there is a chrome flush ell that connects the tank to the bowl. The flush ell has two chrome 2" slip nuts and washers. The bowl is set first, then the flush ell is connected to the bowl and the last step is to drop the tank onto the flush ell, while fasting the tank to the wall. It's been some time since I set a toilet of that vintage. You must be restoring a old home.
    http://www.signaturehardware.com/product704

    John

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Pacific Northwet
    Posts
    1,361

    Default Re: calling all plumbers.....questions

    That piece on the right: the bell end goes INTO the back of the bowl. A rubber spud washer goes on the spud, then a spud nut is tightened down. As the spud washer is forced onto the bell end, it expands to seal inside the bowl opening with a friction fit.

    Once the spud is properly installed, the tank elbow is inserted into the spud, and a compression ring and nut are tightened onto the spud to seal.

    The "Senior Member" designation under my name doesn't mean I know a lot, it just means I talk a lot.I've been a DIYer since I was 12 (thanks, Dad!). I have read several books on various home improvement topics. I do not have any current code books I can refer to. I was an apprentice plumber for two years.

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