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  1. #1
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    Default washing machine stops in rinse cycle

    Hello,
    I have a 15 yr old Maytag top load washer that stops during the rinse cycle. I hear a click, then it stops. If I lift the lid and put it back down again, it starts... but then stops again after a few seconds. This happens with almost every load. Sometimes I have to lift the lid once or twice. Sometimes many times. Once through the rinse cycle, it continues on just fine. The timer was replaced about 2 years ago. The lid switch makes a strong clicking noise when the lid is raised and lowered, so I don't know if I should suspect that. Does anyone have any suggestions?
    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: washing machine stops in rinse cycle

    its probably the transmission. had a similar issue a couple years ago. memory serves correct the labour and parts can be more than replacing the washer.

    best bet call teh maytag man
    fire up the saw and make some dust

  3. #3
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    Default Re: washing machine stops in rinse cycle

    Quote Originally Posted by rickford66 View Post
    Hello,
    I have a 15 yr old Maytag top load washer that stops during the rinse cycle. I hear a click, then it stops. If I lift the lid and put it back down again, it starts... but then stops again after a few seconds. This happens with almost every load. Sometimes I have to lift the lid once or twice. Sometimes many times. Once through the rinse cycle, it continues on just fine. The timer was replaced about 2 years ago. The lid switch makes a strong clicking noise when the lid is raised and lowered, so I don't know if I should suspect that. Does anyone have any suggestions?
    Thanks.
    Lets see --
    ( 1 ) After the agitating wash cycle stops , ( 2 ) the washer drains the water and then spins the clothes to remove most of the water. ( 3 ) Then, it refills, and agitates the clothes some more to rinse out the soap. ( 4 ) Then it drains and spins again.

    At which point is the issue ?

    It wouldn't be the lid switch especially if the spin cycle works. The lid switch is a safety interlock to stop the spinning drum in the event the lid is opened --- preventing injury.

    Transmission --- I kinda doubt it if the agitator and drum spins.

    You could try advancing the timer a click or two to see if that starts the cycle --- even though it was changed you can't rule it out.
    Last edited by canuk; 06-16-2011 at 09:20 PM.
    "" an ounce of perception -- a pound of obscure "
    - Rush

  4. #4
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    Default Re: washing machine stops in rinse cycle

    I believe it is both spin cycles. I noticed it last night in the first spin cycle. My wife noticed it today in the final spin cycle. Why would timer fail so soon? The original lasted around 12-13 years. Also, if the contact in the timer was bad, why would it start up again after raising and lowering the lid? I was looking at the wiring schematic and it shows two switches. One is a lid switch and the other is labeled "check" switch. Both switches show positions "lid open" and "lid closed" but they aren't shown as ganged together as a double throw switch. What is the purpose of this check switch? Also, we have noticed that the washer seems to vibrate a lot more in rinse than it used to. Not sure if it's related, but sometimes it feels like it's going to shake the house apart.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: washing machine stops in rinse cycle

    Quote Originally Posted by rickford66 View Post
    I believe it is both spin cycles. I noticed it last night in the first spin cycle. My wife noticed it today in the final spin cycle. Why would timer fail so soon? The original lasted around 12-13 years. Also, if the contact in the timer was bad, why would it start up again after raising and lowering the lid? I was looking at the wiring schematic and it shows two switches. One is a lid switch and the other is labeled "check" switch. Both switches show positions "lid open" and "lid closed" but they aren't shown as ganged together as a double throw switch. What is the purpose of this check switch? Also, we have noticed that the washer seems to vibrate a lot more in rinse than it used to. Not sure if it's related, but sometimes it feels like it's going to shake the house apart.
    So -- the problem is the *spin * ??

    Then it's possible the lid switch is fauly or intermittent or fauly -- or the belt is slipping -- or if the motor is a reversing type could be faulty ( probably the least likely ).

    Vibration could be the washer is unlevel or the load is unbalanced --- or --- The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized ( these components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. )
    "" an ounce of perception -- a pound of obscure "
    - Rush

  6. #6
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    Default Re: washing machine stops in rinse cycle

    Most major appliances are not cheap to fix, in most cases. And most repairs can easily exceed the cost of a brand new unit... Even if you invest the money in fixing it, or fix it yourself...you still have a 15 year old machine that can stop any minute.

    Feel lucky to have gotten 15 years out of this washer, I would replace it.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: washing machine stops in rinse cycle

    It's probably the "air pressure" or "water level" switch inside the console. These are the same switches, but different people call them different names. There is an empty tube that goes from the bottom of the spin basket to the air switch in the console. As the washer fills with water, so does this tube, thereby creating air pressure inside the air pressure switch. It's the air pressure switch's job to DIVERT electrical power from the water mixing valves to the timer motor when the water level in the washing machine is sufficient to do a half load or full load of laundry.

    What's happening in our case is that the water level switch is shutting off electric power to the water mixing valve, but NOT redirecting that electrical power to the timer motor. So, the machine partially or completely fills up with water and then promptly goes into a coma because the timer motor isn't turning and telling the other motors and solenoids on the machine what to do next. Once you have a half or full load of laundry in your tub, and sufficient water in the tub to clean those clothes, it's the various motors and solenoids under the control of the timer motor that perform the wash cycle.



    If this is a top loading Maytag, then here's the start-up sequence:

    1. Power flows through the washer's cord to the lid switch. As long as the lid is down, then power flows through the lid switch to the timer knob which will set the machine into operation if it's pulled out, rotated and pushed back in.

    2. When the timer knob is pulled out and rotated to some position in the wash cycle and then pushed back in, power then flows through the water temperature switch on the console of the washerwhich activates the hot water solenoid and/or the cold water solenoid on the water mixing valve so that hot water, cold water or warm water flows into the wash basket.

    3. As the washing machine fills with water, a tube that runs vertically from the side of the drain tub up to the "air pressure switch" inside the console begins to fill with water, thereby trapping air in the air pressure switch at the top of that tube. Once the air pressure inside the air pressure switch indicateds there's enough water in the machine to do a half load, then the air pressure switch trips and diverts power to the "size of load" switch. If the size of load is set to a half wash, then the air pressure switch diverts the power going to the hot and cold mixing valves to the timer motor which sets the wash cycle into operation.

    4. If it turns out that the setting on the "size of load" switch is set to full load, then the water mixing valve will keep allowing water to flow into the wash basket until the air pressure switch in the concole indicates there's sufficient water in the machine to do a full load of laundry. If the size of load switch setting isn't on "Half Load", then it will be set on "Full Load". Then, the air pressure switch in the console diverts power from the wate mixing valve to the timer motor which sets the wash cycle into operation.

    So, if your washing machine can be set to wash a half load or a full load, test the machine to see if it operate properly on half load washes. Other wise the problem seems to be that the air pressure switch isn't functioning properly. Instead of that air pressure switch diverting the power from the water mixing valve to the timer motor, it's simply shutting off the power to the water mixcing valves, BUT NOT directing that power to the timer motor.

    Go to your local factory autorized service depot for Maytag, and confirm with them that a faulty air pressure switch would cause this problem, and ask if you could borrow an old used air pressure switch that's still working properly to confirm. If installing the old air pressure switch solves the problem, then installing a new one should correct the problem too.


    timer motor. The timer motor then closes the contacts to the washer's split phase motor, and that starts the washer agitating. If the machine is not set to do a half load, the machine will keep filling until the air pressure switch recognizes that there's sufficient wair pressure in the air pressure switch to do a full load of laundry.
    3. As
    Last edited by Nestor; 06-17-2011 at 01:07 AM.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: washing machine stops in rinse cycle

    Nestor -- I don't fully agree with some of your information

    1 ) on many washers the lid can be open and the washer's timer will be energized. You can have the lid open while the washer fills with water -- the agitation in wash cycle will also function.
    It's main purpose is to apply a break, or clutch ( in transmission direct drive ) or de-energise the motor while in *spin* when the lid is open.

    If the water level sensor functions to allow the * wash cycle * I doubt it would cause any issue with the *spin * cycle.

    Just a thought
    "" an ounce of perception -- a pound of obscure "
    - Rush

  9. #9
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    Default Re: washing machine stops in rinse cycle

    Canuk:

    Well, the start-up sequence I outlined is correct, but you're right; if the pressure switch works properly on the wash cycle, it should work properly all the time. I misread the original post and was under the impression that the washer always stopped at the beginning of the rinse cycle, after the tub had filled, and that's what made me think the pressure switch was the problem.

    Rickford66:
    My Maytag top loaders have what Maytag calls "a lid switch and unbalance mechanism" on them that stops the machine if the load is out of balance. This is to prevent the washer from dancing around and damaging itself or anything else during the spin cycle.
    This unbalance mechanism isn't an electric switch at all; it appears to be a metal or plastic rod. When you partially close the lid of your washer, you'll see that as that lid closes, it pushes in a plunger. That plunger isn't attached to the lid switch directly. Pushing in that plunger causes the unbalance mechanism rod to push back on a lever. A set screw on the other end of that lever depresses the lid switch button. If the spin tub travels too far laterally in an unbalanced situation, the unbalance mechanism gets pulled out from between the plunger and that lever, so the lid switch button pops open, stopping the machine just as though the lid had been opened. By opening the lid fully, a spring pulls that unbalanced mechanism back into position so that it will depress the lid switch (via the lever) when the lid is next closed.
    Since that's what you've discovered works to put your washer back into operation, it could be that something is causing that unbalance mechanism to trip when it shouldn't, and that by opening and closing the lid, you're resetting that unbalanced mechanism so that it works again... for a while.
    I'd quote you what my Maytag service manual says about this lid switch and unbalance mechanism, but it refers to diagrams that I can't reproduce here.
    I think it's worth taking a closer look at, but by the same token, I can't explain why this problem would occur on the rinse cycle rather than on the preceding spin cycle or subsequent spin cycle. According to the service manual, you should be able to remove everything before the lid switch by taking the lid off the machine (watch, cuz the teflon balls on each side of the lid will go flying when you remove the lid) and removing the two screws on each side of the plunger. There will be nylon washers under those screws. Maybe take the whole assembly down to a Maytag factory authorized service depot and see if they can see anything wrong with it.
    That unbalanced lever is called everything under the Sun. Google "Maytag Out of Balance Switch" or "Maytag Unbalance switch" or "Maytag Unbalance Mechanism" and you should find a few web sites that talk about it. You should be able to download a service manual free from Whirlpool's web site (cuz they bought Maytag) that will hopefully give you the same diagrams and explanations as in my service manual.
    Last edited by Nestor; 06-18-2011 at 02:53 AM.

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