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  1. #11
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    Default Re: Plunge cutting tools

    Sophie,

    Thanks for the excellent sketch. Don't cut anything yet.

    From here it looks like you might be spending a bit more time under your house if you really want that tiled floor. From your sketch it seems the floor joists will not support tile as the 2x6's spaced that wide apart would have too much deflection. I really can't tell without more information.

    What is the joist size? Joist span? Joist species? Joist condition? There is a handy dandy deflecto-meter designed specifically for tile over at the John Bridge Tile Forum. Plug in your information there and you'll find if your current floor will support tile or you need to add more support.

  2. #12
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    Jul 2009
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    Default Re: Plunge cutting tools

    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo View Post
    Now that's a great little blade, no stopping to finish where the cut was started, very nice.

  3. #13
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    Default Re: Plunge cutting tools

    I agree with Sten. These blades can make life easier.
    In fact I need to get me a set of these blades asap.

  4. #14
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    Sep 2009
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    florida
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    Thumbs up Re: Plunge cutting tools

    Quote Originally Posted by Sten View Post
    Now that's a great little blade, no stopping to finish where the cut was started, very nice.
    Yep the blades are sweet....great idea.


    Now back to you Sophie. By any chance did you measure the floor joist centers. Are they spaced 24,16" etc on center.....
    Also was there any mechanicals plumbing,elec,heating ducts,vents between any of the joist spaces.

    Give us that info then you will be able to get you moving forward with your project.

    By the way great layout attachment !
    Gizmo

    Cut it 3 times & it's still to short.
    Inventor of the Miter Master Plus.

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  5. #15
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    Default Re: Plunge cutting tools

    From the look of that drawing it seems like the floor system is inadequate to meet the deflection standards for tile. For ceramic and porcelain you'll need a minimum of L360 and for natural stone a deflection of no less than L720. You'll need to check the deflection and make any corrections before cutting out the flooring. You may find ceramic tile isn't in your plans if the structural work is more than you bargained for.

    You'll be served well by using the deflecto-meter on the John Bridge Tile Forum to find out if your floor system will support tile.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Louisiana (Cajun Country USA)
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    143

    Default Re: Plunge cutting tools


    I'd certainly be interested tohear what A. Spruce has to say since I've provided more info.


    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo View Post
    This blade makes things a little easier for a novice.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utqbG4bgB5M
    Gizmo....that is very cool! I'll have to look into getting some of those.

    Quote Originally Posted by JLMCDANIEL View Post
    Sophie you can probably rent a toe kick saw or reciprocating saw at you local tool rental if you don't want to buy.
    Jack, I have a recip. saw and my dad has a toe-kick saw. So I'll have my choice of tools for the job. Just have to decide which one I should use. I've never used the toe-kick saw.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo View Post
    Now back to you Sophie. By any chance did you measure the floor joist centers. Are they spaced 24,16" etc on center.....
    Also was there any mechanicals plumbing,elec,heating ducts,vents between any of the joist spaces.

    Give us that info then you will be able to get you moving forward with your project.

    By the way great layout attachment !
    Gizmo.....yes, the floor joists are 24" O.C. There is nothing between the joists at the moment. I have removed all my plumbing supply lines and drain lines in preparation for a whole house replumbing job.

    Thanks for the compliment. 18 years of drafting & design work comes in handy sometimes. Updated image is below.


    Quote Originally Posted by HoustonRemodeler View Post
    From the look of that drawing it seems like the floor system is inadequate to meet the deflection standards for tile. For ceramic and porcelain you'll need a minimum of L360 and for natural stone a deflection of no less than L720. You'll need to check the deflection and make any corrections before cutting out the flooring. You may find ceramic tile isn't in your plans if the structural work is more than you bargained for.

    You'll be served well by using the deflecto-meter on the John Bridge Tile Forum to find out if your floor system will support tile.
    I already have used the deflecto calculator on the John Bridge Tile Forum. See updated image below.

    peace,
    Sophie

  7. #17
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    Jun 2007
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    Default Re: Plunge cutting tools

    Sophie, on problem the I see is the lower wall in the drawing is between the joists which would require blocking underneath before you cut the floor.

    You will probably have to double the joists to get proper support and use at least 3/4" plywood sub-floor.

    Jack
    Be sure you live your life, because you are a long time dead.-Scottish Proverb

  8. #18
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    Aug 2007
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    7,195

    Default Re: Plunge cutting tools

    Quote Originally Posted by SophieC View Post
    I'd certainly be interested tohear what A. Spruce has to say since I've provided more info.
    To be honest, tile is not my thing, so I've stayed out of what you should and shouldn't be doing. I would like to comment on something Jack just said though.

    Quote Originally Posted by JLMCDANIEL View Post
    Sophie, on problem the I see is the lower wall in the drawing is between the joists which would require blocking underneath before you cut the floor.

    You will probably have to double the joists to get proper support and use at least 3/4" plywood sub-floor.

    Jack
    That's my thinking as well, but why cut along this wall at all? With it only inches from the nearest joist like that (joist is on the bathroom side ), there's no need to remove the subfloor from that area. The other wall, I'd highly recommend adding a joist on the bathroom side of the wall, then there's no worry of wall support. Once the subflooring is out, then the rest of the joists can be bolster to prepare for the tile.

    Something to keep in mind as well, it is infinitely easier to work from the top when doing structural work like this, so if it were me, I'd cut the central area of the floor out to give easy access to the sub area of the bathroom. From there you can easily sneak under each side to deal with whatever supports you're going to add under the walls before removing the flooring out to the walls.
    I suffer from CDO ... Its like OCD, but in alphabetical order, LIKE IT SHOULD BE!!!

  9. #19
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    Sep 2009
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    florida
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    598

    Default Re: Plunge cutting tools

    Quote Originally Posted by SophieC View Post

    I'd certainly be interested tohear what A. Spruce has to say since I've provided more info.




    Gizmo....that is very cool! I'll have to look into getting some of those.



    Jack, I have a recip. saw and my dad has a toe-kick saw. So I'll have my choice of tools for the job. Just have to decide which one I should use. I've never used the toe-kick saw.



    Gizmo.....yes, the floor joists are 24" O.C. There is nothing between the joists at the moment. I have removed all my plumbing supply lines and drain lines in preparation for a whole house replumbing job.

    Thanks for the compliment. 18 years of drafting & design work comes in handy sometimes. Updated image is below.




    I already have used the deflecto calculator on the John Bridge Tile Forum. See updated image below.



    Depending on how long the floor joist are spanned from beam to beam or foundation,I would double up every one of the existing floor joist and add additional dbl joist in between all the exsiting one. This way your joint are roughly 12"centers.

    Add dbl joist at the wall also,one should sit directly under the wall and the other should sit inside the bath room side.
    Gizmo

    Cut it 3 times & it's still to short.
    Inventor of the Miter Master Plus.

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  10. #20
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    Dec 2010
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    Houston Texas
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    Default Re: Plunge cutting tools

    If you want to match the height of existing flooring or finish height is an issue will determine which course of action you take with the joist spacing - that will determine your thickness of plywood.

    I'd cut out the center section, throw more double joists under those side walls and for the added few dollars and ease of access, add more joists on center between the old ones. Its a cheap, fast and easy way to super stiffen that floor.

    If you do that, you can use 5/8" plywood with ditra and get the lowest profile under your tile.

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