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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Santa Cruz, CA

    Default Basic Drywall Question.

    I am replacing several pieces of sheet rock in my 35 yr. house. The new board is not really 1/2 in. So there is a level dif. My question is, do I taper where they meet with fix, allow to dry, then tape? Or do I add fix, tape and squeegee for first pass? Then taper later?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    nova scotia, canada

    Default Re: Basic Drywall Question.

    how thick is the old board, chances are its a layer of plaster rock then plaster on that which usually works out to around 3/4" or 7/8".

    there a couple different things you can do. fur out the studs so that 1/2" will line up.. meaning if the old walls are 7/8" thick add some 3/8" strips to the studs first before applying the drywall, or use 2 layers of 3/8 drywall

    as for the mudd portion. fill the joint with sheetrock 90 first, this will bond the joints first, do it sparingly as sheetrock 90 drys very hard and is difficult to sand. from there slowly build up the low point with very thin layers of ready mix mudd each layer switching to a larger knife to feather out the mudd to make the seam less and less notice able
    fire up the saw and make some dust

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007

    Default Re: Basic Drywall Question.

    Drywall from 35 years ago was the same thickness as it is today. The difference you're seeing could be any number of things.
    1 - taped seams and corners are going to be thicker because of a build up of the original taping finish.
    2 - Texture adds thickness, as does "no texture", which means that the entire surface has been floated with drywall compound.
    3 - The original material may be 5/8, which is most commonly found on fire walls and ceilings.

    As jkirk said, you can fur up the new to the same height as the old, or use thicker material or, if the difference isn't off that much, just float it out when you tape the joints.

    Proper taping procedure depends on the tape you're using. If mesh tape, apply the tape to clean, bare drywall and press it into place with your hand or knife edge. First coat with regular joint compound, subsequent coats can be either joint or topping compound. If using paper tape, then a thin layer of joint compound is applied to the joint. Set the tape into the wet mud and lay it off with a knife to smooth and press it into place. Be careful not to press too hard and squish all the mud out or the tape will fail. You can immediately follow setting the tape with another coat of joint compound. Once dry, continue with topping compound until the desired finish level is achieved. Texture is applied once the area has been sanded smooth.

    Using a good primer such as blue label Zinsser, apply two coats to the patched areas and one coat to the entire wall. Follow that with two coats of a good quality paint such as Kelly Moore or Sherwin Williams.
    I suffer from CDO ... Its like OCD, but in alphabetical order, LIKE IT SHOULD BE!!!

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