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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    Default polybutylene plumbing

    i have a 25 yr old house that has seen it's second failure.
    we have 3/4 tubing running over head with copper fittings. the fittings seem to be failing once in 2009 and now just last week.
    the 2009 resulted in big water damage, the last was caught early.
    in 2009 the plumber used shark fittings and as done in minutes.
    the last failure i went and bought the fittings myself and did the quick repair. i was planing on replacing all the fitting on the plumbing. now i'm thinking i should replace the tubing also, my question is what material should i use????
    cpvc, pex or what else is out there and what offers the best,yet econimical solution and should i contunue pex with the shark fittings or should i go with cpvc and glue.
    we live in Fla. no basement. so i'm going overhead with some drywall acess and some exterior sideing removal.

    i want to do this once and be done with it!!!

    thanks joe

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    South*East
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    1,168

    Default Re: polybutylene plumbing

    Joe I would go with PEX. We have seen CPVC getting brittle on hot water lines. That being said there have also been some failures with PEX. There was some pipe made by Nibco that there were some problems with, but from what there saying know it has been solved. I also would not use shark bite fittings in a area that is not exposed. What ever you decide to go with when piping the water heater both PEX and CPVC recommend not using either within 18" of the heater.

    John

  3. #3
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    Jan 2011
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    4

    Default Re: polybutylene plumbing

    my plumbing supply said cpvc would be fine. just make sure to use the special glue and do not expose to uv rays, i can transition to copper near the hot water tank in and out he said the crimper tool was expensive.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Default Re: polybutylene plumbing

    Quote Originally Posted by jspano View Post
    my plumbing supply said cpvc would be fine. just make sure to use the special glue and do not expose to uv rays, i can transition to copper near the hot water tank in and out he said the crimper tool was expensive.
    Expensive - That depends on what you consider expensive. You could check for used ones or bye new then sell them when your done.

    http://www.pexcrimpusa.com/

    John

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    4

    Default Re: polybutylene plumbing

    john

    first thankyou for your help!

    i would really like to go the w/pex. i would need almost 200.00 in just tools (3/4' and 1/2) do they make 1 tool for both?
    cpvc seems more do it your self friendly. i'm going to have to remove several spots of dry wall and 1 spot of outdoor siding(right by the front door,figures couldn't be around back) plus the attics here in fla. are tight.
    my main worry is failures either product(i'm not fimilar w/pex fitings) and the temp in the attics here go from very hot to freezing in 24 hrs.

    thanx
    joe

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    South*East
    Posts
    1,168

    Default Re: polybutylene plumbing

    Joe I also live in Florida and have been in many attics and they do get very hot. When we get involved in re pipes ( we try to stay away from them) we use pipe covering on both hot and cold. Even with that in the summer months the cold water is still warmer the usual.

    John

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