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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    4

    Default Re: submersible pump goes on and off

    "It would help if when the pump is cycling that you pull the cover off the pressure switch and see if the points are opening and closing or if the pump is cycling while the points remain closed."

    Thanks Keith. Yes, the points in the pressure switch close when the pump is on and open when it's off. The pump runs steadily when I close the faucet valve that leads to the 30 gallon bladder tank and open the extra valve that runs out to the line that used to bring water from the lake (it's sealed off now.)

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    4

    Default Re: submersible pump goes on and off

    Problem solved. Water shoots out of shrader valve at top of Well Mate W9 water tank, indicating that the bladder has ruptured and needs to be replaced. Well Mate sells replacement kits and a PDF with detailed instructions is available on the internet. I can't post the link because I haven't made the required minimum of 10 posts here, but it can be found here if you add the "www" in front of this:

    wellmate.com/Files/KnowledgeBase/ItemDownload/en/residential-aircell-replace-instructions.pdf

    Thanks to everyone for your help and comments.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    15

    Default Re: submersible pump goes on and off

    [QUOTE=****hiller;49078]There is also a possibility that the relay inside the pump control box is malfunctioning. If wired correctly/normally....the red wire from the box to the pump will carry current to the start-windings of the motor, the black wire will carry current to the run-windings and the yellow wire will be the neutral.>





    Hello Just wanted to chime in here. In regards to the quote above by ****hiller. When the pump is a 230v motor, the yellow wire is not neutral. When the motor is running the red wire will be "dead" (less than 2amps) with the yellow and black wires carrying the 230v. On a 3/4hp pump the yellow wire should carry 8amps (+/- 1amp); the black wire should carry 7amps(+/- 1amp). The red wire when the pump is started will throw another 120v to the pump essential giving the motor ~400v to start on. It does this because the pump must go from 0 rpms to 3250 rpms within one revolution under the load of the standing water in the pipe plus the load to push the water. Just my two cents.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    1,745

    Default Re: submersible pump goes on and off

    [QUOTE=shannonw;269736]
    Quote Originally Posted by ****hiller View Post
    There is also a possibility that the relay inside the pump control box is malfunctioning. If wired correctly/normally....the red wire from the box to the pump will carry current to the start-windings of the motor, the black wire will carry current to the run-windings and the yellow wire will be the neutral.>





    Hello Just wanted to chime in here. In regards to the quote above by ****hiller. When the pump is a 230v motor, the yellow wire is not neutral. When the motor is running the red wire will be "dead" (less than 2amps) with the yellow and black wires carrying the 230v. On a 3/4hp pump the yellow wire should carry 8amps (+/- 1amp); the black wire should carry 7amps(+/- 1amp). The red wire when the pump is started will throw another 120v to the pump essential giving the motor ~400v to start on. It does this because the pump must go from 0 rpms to 3250 rpms within one revolution under the load of the standing water in the pipe plus the load to push the water. Just my two cents.
    The above information is totally bogus.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    15

    Default Re: submersible pump goes on and off

    [QUOTE=keith3267;269743]
    Quote Originally Posted by shannonw View Post

    The above information is totally bogus.
    Uh. That information is not bogus. A 3 wire 230v submersible pump does not have a neutral wire it grounds itself through the case in the water. I know its hard to believe for electricians but its true. I have been working on these for over 20 years with the family business being open for over 60 years.

    But hey if you don't believe me why don't you check the source that manufactures over 95% of all water well pump motors . Franklin electric.
    Here's a direct link to their service info on the web. http://www.franklin-electric.com/aim...l/page-13.aspx

    Just check your pump size follow it across to max load amps and it gives you a yellow a black and a red rating. If you look at the bottom of the page it tells how to test them.
    Last edited by shannonw; 10-02-2012 at 09:13 PM. Reason: addition

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