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Thread: Soundproofing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Default Soundproofing

    Soundproofing Question:
    I would like to soundproof the wall between a master bathroom and hallway bathroom. Basically my bathroom and my kids bathroom. The existing 2x4 wall is not insulated. Do you think if I filled in the cavities of the wall with blown in insulation this would help? My thought was to access the top of the wall plate from the attic and cut a 2" diameter hole in the top plate of each cavity and stuff loose insulation into each cavity. I'm just afraid when all is said and done it won't work..
    Thoughts???

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Northern Virginia
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    Default Re: Soundproofing

    Really the only surefire way to soundproof the adjoining spaces is to re-frame the walls with staggered studs, so that their drywall is attached to their studs, and your drywall is attached to another set of studs, and that the two sets remain out of contact to one another.
    Short of this, replace the drywall on your side with sound-deadening drywall. It's super-expensive but is said to work.
    S_M
    Remove not the ancient landmark, which your fathers have set.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Default Re: Soundproofing

    Depends on how much sound control you're trying to achieve.

    If you're looking to dampen or muffle the sound between rooms then adding insulation in the walls will work fine.

    If you want to completely deaden or eliminate any sound then the previous posts are ways to do that.
    "" an ounce of perception -- a pound of obscure "
    - Rush

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    24

    Default Re: Soundproofing

    Thanks for all your responses...
    I guess I should have explained that on each wall is a vanity, toilet, water lines, etc. so I'm not about to move these items or call in a plumber for this project...I can live with a dampened or muffled sound so I think I will try stuffing the existing cavities with some sort of blown in insulation..

    Thanks again!!!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    62

    Default Re: Soundproofing

    Well you pretty much answered your question before asking. If you can't/won't remove the items then your only option is blown in insulation by drilling a hole though the header between each stud bay and blowing in cellulose or similar insulation. This will deaden the sound a bit, but I wouldn't expect a huge difference.

    Accoustical insulation (Safe And Sound is one brand) plus staggering the studs, either by doing 2x4s off-center on 2x6 header and footer or else two seperate 2x4 walls seperated by a small cavity will do a bang-up job of muffling sounds a lot.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    24

    Default Re: Soundproofing

    I guess it's worth a shot..
    If it doesn't work at least the wall will be warm....

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Casper, Wyoming
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    159

    Default Re: Soundproofing

    Make sure to research which insulation is best for this type of project (foam, batt, fibergalss, etc.)
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    1,387

    Default Re: Soundproofing

    Howdy, if you can locate 4" rock wool batt insulation . Then i would open up one wall above the bath fixtures and 6 inches below the ceiling and install it in the cavity then repair or have the drywall repaired. This Stone wool insulation (AFB) is used for sound proofing and will make a world of difference. Refer to the manufacturer- Roxul their web page for where a dealer is in relation to your home .....

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Default Re: Soundproofing

    Sounds to me the OP is looking for an economical and probably least intrusive method of muffling the sound between 2 rooms.
    Building out or tearing open walls along with all that comes with doing those doesn't sound like the way he wants to do it.

    The method the OP has merit and is certainly least intrusive and pretty economical.

    It might be a bit ackward doing the work from up in the attic and if done make sure to seal the holes with even canned spray foam.

    Otherwise a 1 or 2 inch hole at each stub bay along the top of the adjoing wall would also work --- mind you there would be some patching and painting --- but it may be easier to get the blower and hose into the room.
    "" an ounce of perception -- a pound of obscure "
    - Rush

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    MIchigan
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    68

    Default Re: Soundproofing

    Small follow-up in case people are researching old threads on the soundproofing topic:

    Standard fiberglass actually has a low frequency advantage over mineral wool and fiber when installed IN a cavity.

    Insulations that are labeled "acoustic" or "sound control" do not perform any better than their thermal insulation counterparts.

    Insulation in a single stud (coupled) wall assembly MIGHT add 1-2 STC points. Maybe. It's intuitive that insulation would perform better, but lab tests are pretty definitive and show the opposite is true. Don't overly rely on insulation

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