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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    3

    Default crown molding for upper cabnets

    i'm making plans to remodel my kitchen. using 42" uppers with
    full face doors. needless to say using this door does not
    allow me to put crown molding on easily. so what is the
    std way to drop the cabnets and apply a spacer to use as
    a nailer?? do i attach a spacer to the ceiling or the cabnets??
    tks bill

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Staten Island, NY
    Posts
    11

    Unhappy Re: crown molding for upper cabnets

    Bill,

    I'll take a guess and say you have 8' ceiling, if that's the case you should not have bought them if you really wanted a crown. 36" upper would have been better. . .

    Even a small crown will project about 2-1/2" which would mean you'd need to either raise your ceiling, which I'm sure you're not going to do or drop your cabinets. If you drop the cabinets it's going to make the space above your counter uncomfortably tight and my not fit standard small appliances.

    My simple suggestion would be if your ceiling are 8' or less, forgo using the crown.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    3

    Default Re: crown molding for upper cabnets

    thank u joe for the info. no i haven't bought my cab's yet and yes i do have 8' ceilings. never thought of 36" cab's but will
    look into that too. i just have crown everywhere in the house and wanted to try to keep the crown on the cab's also.. might be do'n some re-thinking.. tks again.. bill

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Pacific Northwet
    Posts
    1,577

    Default Re: crown molding for upper cabnets

    If you're installing full-face cabinets, you're definitely going to want to have some sort of spacer to bump them down from the ceiling. Otherwise the doors will sc**** the ceiling.

    What I would do is make the spacer kind of an L-shape, with the horizontal leg of the L attached to the cabinets and the back side of the vertical L. Make the vertical leg about 3/4" shorter than than the space between the top of the door and the ceiling. Attach this leg so there's a gap above the door that's equal to the gap around the door. On the end panel, no gap. The gap above the spacer is irrelevant, as the molding won't attach there anyway, and it will keep you from having to scribe it for a tight fit.

    Attach the crown molding to the ceiling. This will ensure that it's tight against the ceiling. A gap against the ceiling is more noticeable than one against the wall (or cabinets). This will also allow a little bit of "float" in case there's any movement of the wall & cabinets relative to the ceiling.

    (OK, I haven't done it this way, and I haven't seen it done this way. But I like to be inventive, and this is the way I would do it. I imagine it would work. If someone else can think of a better way, teach us!)
    The "Senior Member" designation under my name doesn't mean I know a lot, it just means I talk a lot.I've been a DIYer since I was 12 (thanks, Dad!). I have read several books on various home improvement topics. I do not have any current code books I can refer to. I was an apprentice plumber for two years.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    4

    Default Re: crown molding for upper cabnets

    If you haven't bought the cabinets yet why not switch to doors that don't have full overlay? Then you will have the space at the top to mount the crown and keep the doors from dragging on it. Building a mounting rail for the crown is an option but it will have to be finished the same as the cabinets so the crown can be raised up to clear the doors.

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