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Thread: wood floors

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    7

    Unhappy wood floors

    why sand between each coat of polyurethane ? and is it ok to use 22o paper by hand , how many coats of poly. should i do on new oak flooring

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    7,051

    Default Re: wood floors

    Sanding is necessary for two reasons. The first coat or two of poly tends to raise the wood grain a bit. Second, as poly is applied, the brush tends to aerate or bubble it. Both of these scenarios leave behind a bit of roughness, so if you want a baby's bottom smooth finish, you lightly sand between coats.

    Yes, 220 grit and hand sanding is acceptable. You're not actually trying to "sand" anything, you're only trying to remove the high spots and roughness.

    I can't offer any specific advice on your floor as I have not done a project like this so far. My poly experience comes from furniture making.
    I suffer from CDO ... Its like OCD, but in alphabetical order, LIKE IT SHOULD BE!!!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Fayette County, Ohio
    Posts
    5,798

    Default Re: wood floors

    Ditto to what Spruce said.
    You will want three coats. Make sure you use a poly rated for floors. My preference is OldMasters oil based poly.
    Jack
    Be sure you live your life, because you are a long time dead.-Scottish Proverb

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    7

    Unhappy Re: wood floors

    after first coat of poly i hand sanded with 220 and some spots look to light should i restain those spots and can i put ply down with a mop the lamb skin from lowes is way to small and im having a real hard time

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    7,051

    Default Re: wood floors

    If you sanded enough to lighten the floor, then you've sanded through the poly. That is way too much sanding, all you're trying to do is give it a light dusting to remove surface bubbles and lightly raised grain. You can try adding a little stain to the lighter areas, but with the poly already sealing the wood, it's not going to take very well if at all.

    As for the application, when I'm doing furniture, I use a natural bristled or foam brush to apply the poly, larger pieces can take a while, but generally working slower is better as long as you maintain a wet edge to work from. I believe I've seen the pro's on the show using 3" brushes and working strips of floor about 12" wide. Using a mop will result in too much poly being applied and an uneven application.
    I suffer from CDO ... Its like OCD, but in alphabetical order, LIKE IT SHOULD BE!!!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    nova scotia, canada
    Posts
    1,522

    Default Re: wood floors

    just dont make the mistake i made 2 years ago, i decided to go captain overkill on my sanding, decided to do 5 coats and use 400 grit on the last two coats, i spent the first 3 weeks on my arse as everytime i walked across the floor in socks i would almost always slip and fall
    fire up the saw and make some dust

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    7

    Default Re: wood floors

    do i need to go with the grain when i apply poly

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    7,051

    Default Re: wood floors

    Yes, you always go with the grain with everything you do. The only time it's ok to go across the grain is when you're in a corner or at the end of a run, but that's only to get the finish onto the material, then you immediately stroke with the grain to smooth and even out the finish. The reason for this is that the grain of the wood will hide streaks, smears, and brush marks as long as they follow the grain.
    I suffer from CDO ... Its like OCD, but in alphabetical order, LIKE IT SHOULD BE!!!

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