+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    ontario
    Posts
    17

    Default the use of sill plate gasket

    if you can use sill plate gasket for your bottom plate. could you not use it to put behind your wooden studs against concrete wall. strap the wall using 2x3 and rigid board insulation. any gap fill with foam. tape all seams. drywall top half and want to wainscott bottom half. rite now have an issue with a wall that has been addressed in another post. but once it's been fixed like to go ahead with plan. room isn't that large thats why not really wanting to go other way. by attaching board first then put up frame. any major issues with going the gasket way.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    731

    Default Re: the use of sill plate gasket

    Quote Originally Posted by don_1949 View Post
    if you can use sill plate gasket for your bottom plate. could you not use it to put behind your wooden studs against concrete wall. strap the wall using 2x3 and rigid board insulation. any gap fill with foam. tape all seams. drywall top half and want to wainscott bottom half. rite now have an issue with a wall that has been addressed in another post. but once it's been fixed like to go ahead with plan. room isn't that large thats why not really wanting to go other way. by attaching board first then put up frame. any major issues with going the gasket way.
    I've got to admit I'm confused, which topic string are you continuing your thoughts on?
    http://advice.thisoldhouse.com/showthread.php?t=10119
    http://advice.thisoldhouse.com/showthread.php?t=10027

    You have an active leak in one wall, and want to replace your windows, I really do suggest you accomplish both those tasks before you begin to finish the walls. Insulating when you may have other moisture issues, as well as active leaking is not such a good idea. Have you tested for condensation collection on the "other walls"? I thought you had previously photographed some areas with efflorescence and peeling/bubbling wall paper? (perhaps I'm recalling incorrectly).

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    ontario
    Posts
    17

    Default Re: the use of sill plate gasket

    sorry blue ridge dont mean to confuse you. guess i am be-bopping around. your rite about the wall and such. i just like to know that if what i said was sufficent to do wall when i can go ahead with it. it was in another thread that i read about sill gasket being used for bottom sill plate. thats where i got the idea of using for studs. if it's ok to do it. then i can at least get a price on what the cost would be for the materials.
    but i'm not going to actually go ahead untill wall situation has been fixed

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    The Great White North
    Posts
    4,045

    Default Re: the use of sill plate gasket

    Don ... Happy New Year .... btw .... Santa did drink all my beer .... or maybe it was A.Spruce


    Many jurisdictions do require the bottom sill plate either be pressure treated or have a material that won't absorb moisture to isolate the plate.
    Otherwise the wood in direct contact with the concrete will wick moisture so the above is preventing rot or mold occurring to the bottom plate.

    To answer your question about using the sill gasket on the back side of the framing .... yes it will work.

    There other options as well that may be allowed in your area. You could apply tar paper to the wall first and then mount your framing ...... though I wouldn't use tar paper myself on a below grade wall. I've seen tar paper disenegrate after being continuously wet. Another option is to apply a house wrap material to the concrete walls first ... better option than the tar paper in my opinion.

    As with any project you should check with your local building department as to what's allowed and required.

    As for your proposed method .... some thoughts.

    Poured concrete walls rarely have a true surface ..... meaning they usually aren't perfectly flat and straight.
    If you were to simply attach your " strapping " to the wall it likely will result in all sorts of wavyness which will telegraph through to the wall finish.
    You will likely need to spend time shimming the "strapping " in order to achieve an nice true frame work for your wall finish.

    This is one of the main reasons that regular framing is used for the walls ..... faster and easier to achieve a truer surface.

    Sounds as though for the " strapping " you will be placing the 2x3 on the flat and filling each 1 1/2 space with rigid foam. While this will work it does present the challenge to run the electrical cables and place the electrical boxes.

    If you were to attach the foam sheets directly to the concrete walls first then attach the " strapping " on top will have advantages. This will provide the isolation to the wood as well the foam will help with providing a truer surface.
    Also this will provide a far better method of insulating the wall by providing a continuous thermal break which is superior to the interrupted method of just insulating the stud spacing.

    One other thought .... considering you will be using the foam insulation you may likely be required to cover the walls with drywall from floor to ceiling then apply your wainscot on top.
    You'll need to check your local building code .... which in Ontario maybe the case.

    Hopefully this makes sense and helps.
    "" an ounce of perception -- a pound of obscure "
    - Rush

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    ontario
    Posts
    17

    Default Re: the use of sill plate gasket

    Thank you Canuk- Happy New Year to you also-dam santa did it again ehhh
    i do have an area of wall that needs to fixed first got seepage. but once thats done. thats what i'm going to do 2" foam board against wall and then strap with 2x3 widest against board. gasket under base board.
    to attach strap thru board and into wall, would a ram set work or better using tap-con screws. ram would be quicker, but concerned gun giving to much force and wrecking strap and just crunching board. appreciate your thoughts on this.
    at this time i would like to thank all who have answered, not just this question but others i have asked.
    and to all those who have the know-how to help us who dont.
    Happy New Year everybody

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •