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Thread: SaniTred

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    2

    Default SaniTred

    I was wondering if anyone has heard of a product called SANITRED (www.sanitred.com) that is used for patching leaky basements.

    I was hoping someone could give me so feedback on the product.

    Th
    Mike

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    2

    Default Re: SaniTred

    hi there Mike,

    I recently used the SaniTred LRB/TAV and Permaflex products to waterproof the insidee of my sub-grade garage walls (for converting it into our new family room) and am in the process of doing the same for our basement. The garage was cinder block - very porous and the basement is a mix of cinder block and old fieldstone walls (the house is 188 yrs old). Generally the product is great but you need to be patient with stripping any existing product off the surface before it will work. It is expensive so you want to take your time to do this. If you have either (a) concrete or concrete block (not cinder block) walls, and (b) there is no existing paint/treatment on the walls then I would say 100% buy this product - it is superb. If (like me) you have cinder block walls which the previous owner has treated with drylok then you are in for one heck of a difficult job. I borrowed a 3500 psi pressure washer from a builder friend and attached a 'wet' sandblast attachment to it to get the existing drylok off after much trial and error (sanitred's off-the-wall coating remover that they advertise didn't work on the stuff on my cinder block walls). You need to fill ALL the pores and cracks in the walls with the LRB/TAV sealant (which has the texture of cake icing and is applied much in the same way). If you don't do this you cannot rely on the permaflex (the paint like product that you buy with the LRB/TAV) to do the job of stopping the water coming through the larger pores. It takes a while. The product works MUCH better on concrete walls/floors or concrete block. I know because I did my floors with the same stuff and it really works well, forming a VERY tough bond. Any more questions - happy to help - I learned a LOT through trial and error so I am happy to pass this on to others.
    Rob,
    Ps I am not in anyway a skilled DIYer and found the stuff simple to apply if ONE FOLLOWS THE INSTRUCTIONS EXACTLY - including have ALL the kit (drill/mixer/trowel,rollers etc) that the company suggests to hand on day one. I tried to mix by hand at first and it was a nightmare.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    2

    Default Re: SaniTred

    Rob

    I appreciate the response. I did get the sample pack from them and have read over their instructions. As you mentioned, it seems as though their product works if you follow the instructions to the letter. Also it is apparent per you response and their instructions that preparation is key.

    With that said i will give the product a shot

    Thanks again for the input

    Mike

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    1

    Default Re: SaniTred

    Quote Originally Posted by mjstavalone View Post
    Rob

    I appreciate the response. I did get the sample pack from them and have read over their instructions. As you mentioned, it seems as though their product works if you follow the instructions to the letter. Also it is apparent per you response and their instructions that preparation is key.

    With that said i will give the product a shot

    Thanks again for the input

    Mike
    Mike, any update on your project?

    My situation is that my property is slightly below grade from the adjoining property. Water is coming in along the base of the concrete wall.

    Thanks,
    David

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    5

    Default Re: SaniTred

    Quote Originally Posted by RobJee View Post
    hi there Mike,

    I recently used the SaniTred LRB/TAV and Permaflex products to waterproof the insidee of my sub-grade garage walls (for converting it into our new family room) and am in the process of doing the same for our basement. The garage was cinder block - very porous and the basement is a mix of cinder block and old fieldstone walls (the house is 188 yrs old). Generally the product is great but you need to be patient with stripping any existing product off the surface before it will work. It is expensive so you want to take your time to do this. If you have either (a) concrete or concrete block (not cinder block) walls, and (b) there is no existing paint/treatment on the walls then I would say 100% buy this product - it is superb. If (like me) you have cinder block walls which the previous owner has treated with drylok then you are in for one heck of a difficult job. I borrowed a 3500 psi pressure washer from a builder friend and attached a 'wet' sandblast attachment to it to get the existing drylok off after much trial and error (sanitred's off-the-wall coating remover that they advertise didn't work on the stuff on my cinder block walls). You need to fill ALL the pores and cracks in the walls with the LRB/TAV sealant (which has the texture of cake icing and is applied much in the same way). If you don't do this you cannot rely on the permaflex (the paint like product that you buy with the LRB/TAV) to do the job of stopping the water coming through the larger pores. It takes a while. The product works MUCH better on concrete walls/floors or concrete block. I know because I did my floors with the same stuff and it really works well, forming a VERY tough bond. Any more questions - happy to help - I learned a LOT through trial and error so I am happy to pass this on to others.
    Rob,
    Ps I am not in anyway a skilled DIYer and found the stuff simple to apply if ONE FOLLOWS THE INSTRUCTIONS EXACTLY - including have ALL the kit (drill/mixer/trowel,rollers etc) that the company suggests to hand on day one. I tried to mix by hand at first and it was a nightmare.
    Rob,

    When using the wet blaster did you get every last bit of drylock off the pourous cinderblock?...I have a 1960's house with cinderblock foundation and just yesterday did a quick trial with a sandblaster to remove a white coating (not sure if its Drylock or something else....long story but being and chemist and talking with company chemists from PeelAway 6 & & products we don't think its drylock) anyway the material has been removed from all the "peaks" in the cinderblock surface but remain in all the "pits"...did you find that COMPLETE removal is necessary...did you attempt Sanitred coverage in areas that had similar partial removal or was it COMPLETELY removed in your case??? Thanks for your time and trouble

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