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Thread: Home network

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    203

    Exclamation Re: Home network

    Wireless networks are not as secure as wired.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    15

    Default Re: Home network

    you know this thread is 2 years old, and you can get everything you need at 'Best Buy'( at a premium.
    if you still have questions start new Thread with the questions that you need answered
    .

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    135

    Default Re: Home network

    Obvious Spammer!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    New London County, CT
    Posts
    88

    Default Re: Home network

    I have always used a wired network in our home. I have an 8 port SMC router going to Comcast.

    The only issue is all the smart phone/iAnything people that come over need a signal. I took a D-Link wireless router and set it up to connect to the SMC.
    1. Set D-Link to a range outside what SMC will offer.
    2. Disable DHCP on D-Link.
    3. Connect LAN of D-Link to LAN of SMC.
    4. Finally, configure wireless as you wish.

    This has been working great for over a year.

    One final thing is that I bought the crimper and connectors that allow you to push the wires through the connector. This makes it easy to confirm the wire color and then crimp and trim the wires all at once.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    18

    Default Re: Home network

    Wired is the way to go. I do everything I can to keep the wireless router next to my desktop so I don't have to connect it wirelessly. Hope you've had good luck installing the network by now.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    203

    Lightbulb Re: Home network

    Correct, wired is much more secure.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    7

    Default Re: Home network

    If someone is looking for improved performance over wireless yet without the ambition of installing a wired network through the house, I would look into the new powerline adapters. Some vendors offers solutions that are 500mb/s+ in speeds with prices around $50 per plug. Not bad depending on your setup.... just something else to consider.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Posts
    140

    Default Re: Home network

    Powerline adapters are supposed to be "plug & use" devices. They either work, or don't work out of the box. The utility software isn't necessary, and supposedly you don't need to adjust settings.

    However, they appear to be dependent on your house wiring. If you want to try this option, you should buy it from a retailer who will refund your money (about $60 for a pair).

    I had a V1 unit (rated at 85 mps) -- it moderately work at one house (the utility software showed about 30mpd speed), but it was a compelete failure at the 2nd house in the room where I placed it.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    1,381

    Default Re: Home network

    I wonder if those power line adapters might not interfere with the automated meter reading that is getting popular today.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Pacific Northwet
    Posts
    1,365

    Default Re: Home network

    There is a major issue to be aware of with Powerline Network Adapters.

    First, you must understand that in typical residential wiring in North America, there are two "legs" to the electrical service. The voltage between each leg and ground is nominally 120V; from leg to leg it is 240V. (The voltage is irrelevant to Powerline networking, but it helps to understand what I am about to explain.)

    Only certain large appliances are 240V -- they connect to both legs. Lights and outlets are 120V -- they may be connected one of the 120V legs or the other.

    When installing Powerline Network Adapters (PNAs), the sending and receiving units must be connected to the same leg of electric service. If they are on different legs, the signal must pass through the utility transformer which will degrade the signal below the point of usability. Ideally you would install the units on the same branch circuit (same breaker or fuse) -- this will give the best performance.

    There are a couple of ways to determine which legs your desired outlets are on.

    The first way is to determine which breakers the desired outlets are on. Then carefully open the electrical panel and check to see if the breakers are connected to the same busbar. If so, it should work. If not, select a different circuit if possible. (Be careful; don't touch any internal components of the panel unless you have turned the main breaker off. Don't touch the screw terminals on the incoming wire, ever.)

    The other way is to run an extension cord from one outlet over to nearby another outlet. Using a neon circuit tester (not the plugin kind, but the kind with two leads), plug one lead into the narrow slot of one outlet, and the other lead into the narrow slot of another outlet. If the tester lights, the outlets are on different legs and are not a suitable pair for the PNAs. If the tester does not light, there's a good chance that the outlets are suitable.

    There are other factors that could make the outlets you select unsuitable for PNAs, but that's beyond the scope of this discussion.
    The "Senior Member" designation under my name doesn't mean I know a lot, it just means I talk a lot.I've been a DIYer since I was 12 (thanks, Dad!). I have read several books on various home improvement topics. I do not have any current code books I can refer to. I was an apprentice plumber for two years.

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