Re: Well Pump question
Originally Posted by bunker45
You're welcome, and am glad you found the linkS helpful.
if you had water spurting out of the shrader valve at the top of a bladder tank that's a given. but the symptoms as first described could have been bad pressure switch or bad settings and a leaking check valve. also could have been from a pressure tank being over charged.
One more thing though, your differential is 15...(cut on 35 cut off 50). Most pumps and tanks are set up for a 20 differential, and the only times I'm familiar with that differential being intentionally set lower than 18-20 is when you have a choke or pump control valve or a slow start speed pump, point being is that when you do intentionally have a 15 differential you usually have a reason for it (unless its a bad pressure switch or someone messed around with the wrong screw setting one screw adjusts the pressure up or down both cut-in and cut-out equally with the same differential, the other screw only adjusts the cut-off presure usually only +/- 5-10 psi) if this was done on purpose (15 differential for a pump flow control valve) then USUALLY you also are supposed to charge your bladder tank with LESS pressure - so the usual tank manufacturer recommendation of letting the air charge in the empty tank to be 2 psi lower than the cut-on pressure switch setting would actually be needed to be charged even lower like 5-7 lbs lower than the cut-on pressure so you'd need to keep that in mind if that is the case. if somebody did this to compensate for a bad checkvalve , now would be the time to replace the bad checkvalve too. dirty contacts in the switch can be cleaned. don't do any adjustments on the pressure switch or try to clean the contacts unless you've verified power is off and confirmed with a meter.
having the tank charge too high will reduce the volume of water that can be in the tank and decrease the drawdown time.
when the differential is less you also decrease the drawdown time.
less drawdown means the pump will have to cycle even for less water volume use - it also means the cycle will be shorter so not able to keep running for continuous use.
having the charge too high in the bladder tank will cause the bladder to fail sooner.
even if your old set up didn't have one you should also have a pressure release valve installed. its something used to be skipped with residential systems with bladder tanks (and often overlooked by DIYers replacing old style tanks with bladder tanks) but shouldn't be. pressure switch contacts have been known to weld closed and tanks have exploded. the little diaphrams in the pressure switches can fail to.
a new pressure switch cost about $20 (unless you've got the kind with a lever out the side if you do say so because these have to be reset a special way) a pressure release valve even less.
a bladder replacement or a bladder tank replacement is an ideal time to replace a pressure switch if necessary to do so, and an ideal time to add a pressure release valve if the prior set up did not have one.