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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    3

    Question wide plank floors

    I am in the process of building a log home with radiant (in the floor joists) through the house. My wife likes the rustic look of wide plank pine floors and although cheaper and quicker to install than narrow plank hard wood I am concerned with how the wide planks of soft wood would react to the heat (buckling ect). The floor itself will be sitting on 1/2" ply sub-floor which will be sitting on 3/4" ADVANDECs deck which is guarranteed water proof. The 1/2" PEXa will be suspended by clips/traks under everying 8" on center between the joists.

    Should I be concerned with cupping/warping or is the fact that the PEXa is under everything and not in the floor enough to negate my worries.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Fairfax, VA
    Posts
    76

    Arrow Re: wide plank floors

    I hope you get an answer on this, as I just recently had a friend as me a similar thing, and I don't know either.

    I have worked with radiant heat under concrete floors and tile floors, but not wood.

    NOVA Pros

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Fayette County, Ohio
    Posts
    5,836

    Default Re: wide plank floors

    Cupping is caused by one side being exposed to moisture that the other side isn't. If you have a good moisture bearer, heat alone will not cause cupping.
    Jack
    Be sure you live your life, because you are a long time dead.-Scottish Proverb

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Coventry, RI
    Posts
    340

    Default Re: wide plank floors

    Radiant heat floors should not get much above 85 degrees so heat should not be an issue with your floors. Of course no matter what the wide pine is going to move quite a bit with the changes in the seasons. I did use an engineered floor in my house when I put in radiant and that has worked out very well. A flooring dealer in your area could probably give you advice on what has worked well over radiant. Hope this helps you out.

    Mike

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    731

    Default Re: wide plank floors

    Quote Originally Posted by Rooster007 View Post
    I am in the process of building a log home with radiant (in the floor joists) through the house. My wife likes the rustic look of wide plank pine floors and although cheaper and quicker to install than narrow plank hard wood I am concerned with how the wide planks of soft wood would react to the heat (buckling ect). The floor itself will be sitting on 1/2" ply sub-floor which will be sitting on 3/4" ADVANDECs deck which is guarranteed water proof. The 1/2" PEXa will be suspended by clips/traks under everying 8" on center between the joists.

    Should I be concerned with cupping/warping or is the fact that the PEXa is under everything and not in the floor enough to negate my worries.
    Frankly I'm confused by subfloor layering. If anything the advantech would go on the joists first then ply for better holding power for the hardwood fasteners but why the three-layers and then under the floor hydronic?

    Second, this is the first I've heard that Advantech was guaranteed waterPROOF, Unless they've come out with a new product, I don't think so. Supposedly more water resistant not to swell from direct water like regular particle board or OSB but really why are you using this? it has more resins and wax to offgas/discolor, make odors especially with under the floor between the joists hydronic especially if your building from scratch, why do this? With wider plank flooring I wouldn't trust OSB or advantech to hold fasteners, strips yes but planks, no, I don't care what they say in their tests I wouldn't trust it to hold bite especially with under the floor radiant heat.

    Whats with the waterproof concerns anyway with hydronic heat and wood floors overtop if you're doing UNDER THE FLOOR heating?

    heck I'd go with in-floor heating combination structural sub floor panel like Warmboard and have a more efficient and responsive radiant floor and stronger subfloor and save the extra step/layers and the 1/4"; OR just go with thicker plywood subfloor with under the floor radiant and skip the extra layer advantech all together - and use the money saved for better reflective foiled board insulation underneath and to buy the tarps needed to protect the subfloor from rain/snow water during construction, since you'd still need those for advantech anyway.

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