Gluing carpet to open aluminum stair treads
It turns out my open stair treads are aluminum. The 20 year old carpet on them was glued down. There is padding on top, the carpet wraps around and under the tread, and was glued on the sides and under the tread. The installer refused to put the new carpet down saying he had no way to keep the carpet in place until the adhesive set. Is there a way to keep the carpet in place on the underside of the tread until the glue dries? What glue is best to use? Thank you.
Re: Gluing carpet to open aluminum stair treads
[QUOTE=RuthieP;42532]It turns out my open stair treads are aluminum. The 20 year old carpet on them was glued down. There is padding on top, the carpet wraps around and under the tread, and was glued on the sides and under the tread. The installer refused to put the new carpet down saying he had no way to keep the carpet in place until the adhesive set. Is there a way to keep the carpet in place on the underside of the tread until the glue dries? What glue is best to use? Thank you.[/QUOTE]
double glue down if you have seperate cushion pad a lot of glue down carpet doesn't need seperate pad. type of glue depends on your carpet.
The old time installers used to use seaming tape kind of like a cross between reinforcing canvas and burlap called jute web or jute webbing that has a herringbone type weave that was hand sewn and reinforced to the carpet back first. it was hand sewn on one side then using an upholstery needle which is curved a whip or overcast stitch to meet the edge. depending on the carpet backing and type of carpet weave it might be a rolled edge on the seam or a whipped edge or with binding or captured edge. i'm not sure what type of thread should be used for your carpet i have made my own small repairs using upholstery button or tuffting thread and they've held up but the seam edges were already reinforced with lapped seaming fabric which was sewn first.
there are other upholstery supplies that are also sometimes used for securing and capturing the edge that can also stretch and tighten depending on the type of carpet. they are metal don't know if they would use in your case they need a solid back and if your treads bottoms are concave probably won't work also don't know if they'd hold up for stair traffic, had used to upholster a carpeted post. we used a few sections of curve ease that were instead of tacked to something were sewn to the seam web on one side of the carpet to capture the other edge and fold/roll it into the seam then whip stitched and blinded with upholstery needle but forgot what threading was used borrowed the spool and returned the unused portion.
find a better installer who knows how to upholster open treads and install carpet with other than glued/ironed seaming tape and tack strip - an old timer. you pre-bind one edge of the seam to the binding fabric and to whichever seam web goes with your carpet and adhesive an old timer would have a binding machine like a special sewing machine with him. seems to me that holding it in place would be easy with open floating treads - using some 2x4"s or other and some strap clamps or even rope with a turning stick would hold it in place since the adhesive has to preset and you use a weighted roller overtop. however long was needed just like gluing up chair legs. but the stitching with upholstery needle and right cording or thread should do it then rolled. you could always clamp it then.
p.s. if they are hollow treads and only carpeting three sides and rolling under the side edges then you could take 2"bys on the outside of the sides of the treads and sandwich a plank of the top of the tread between the lips of the 2"xs on the side and secure with pole clamps over top then insert 2"bys in the inside of the tread sides and use screw clamps like screw jacks on the inside to hold it too if using C clamps alone with wood sandwich on alone would force the walking surface tread out of square or buckle by the amount of pressure you need and weight to roll the carpet to the glue and keep it embedded against the gravity pulling it off. I don't think you'll be able to accomplish maintaining the 30-100 lbs of weighted rolling and embeding force you need and resisting gravity pulling it bout of the adhesive on the sides of the treads or underside with spring clamps.