My honey got my house 20% sided and then ran off with a new honey!!!:eek:
I have some questions about how to finish this project. I have all the tongue and groove boards and other materials, now I just have questions.
On the part of the house that's completed, he double nailed each of the boards. I've seen on some internet sites that you can singly toe-nail them and then you don't have to fill and sand all of the nail holes...any comments? :confused: The boards are 6" wide. They are also seconds so I have a lot of open knot holes, I would also like to know how to address them.
I've included some pics in this post. My next question is about window trim. They're not trimmed yet and I had a friend tell me to caulk around the edges of the siding and the tar paper underneath. The original carpenter on this project later told me that I shouldn't have done that because it will trap moisture in behind the boards. He later told me that it's probably okay for now because the house is sitting for the winter. So, I'm wondering if in the spring time before I trim the windows, should I somehow remove that caulking? :rolleyes: (see photo 1)
My next concern is how to do the corners of the house (see photo 2 ). He put the boards to the edge and planned on running boards vertically on the corners. I'm wondering how to attach (nailing pattern) the corner trim and if and where I should caulk...the ends of the boards are not caulked right now and I'm a little concerned.?:(
Thanks in advance for any advice that you have to offer. :)
Re: cedar siding
Putting up corner boards is easy. It's important is to make sure both boards of the corner board are equal, or nearly so. For one-story house , 1-by-5 (4 1/2 inches wide) and a 1-by-4 (3 1/2 inches wide) will work well. Nail the two together so that the 1-by-4 butts against the 1-by-5; this will make the width in both directions almost equal. It's best to nail the two pieces into an "L" shape, then nail it against the corners. For a 2-story house, the pieces can be 1-by-6 and 1-by-5, You need a wider corner board to look right on two stories.
As far as your windows go, I would have framed them first, so a lead drip edge could have been installed under the siding and across the top of the windows.I hope you can still accomplish this. It is important to prevent water from running down behind the window frame.
Tongue and grove siding can be installed like T&G flooring . That is install the siding with the tongue up. Toenail the siding through the tongue and then slide the grove of the next piece down over the tongue. The only face nailing would be on the bottom row.
Hope that helps
Re: cedar siding
Thank you so much!!! That is a huge help.:D
Re: cedar siding
Well I've learned alot from JLMCDANIEL through this thread and private messages...just want to say THANKYOU!!
My house was done in the front by nailing two nails in each board of raw T&G cedar siding. I then had to putty and sand all of the nail holes and then apply sealant. It was somewhat tedious but not too bad. I did seal the ends of the boards but I didn't put any caulk on them. My concern now is that there may be moisture behind them and the back of the boards are not sealed. The double nail holes filled with putty are visible also.
I'm going to go out tomorrow (if it doesn't rain) and caulk the ends of the boards to the tar paper. Thanks for the advice Jack...
When I undertake this project in the spring, I think I have a new plan of attack. I will first seal all 6 sides of my wood, and then singly toe nail into the tongues which should eliminate unsightly nailholes, raw wood in the back, and hours and hours of sanding...
If any of you seasoned pros out there are reading this and you see a problem with my plan or you can add something to it that you think I should know...please...by all means...SPEAK RIGHT UP!!! I'll take all the help I can get.;)