What to use?????
I will be installing a NEW "Old Fashioned" style wood stove in a cabin very soon. The type with the removable plates on top and it can be used for cooking, just like grand ma used to use. No fancy add on's to this baby. No blower, thermostat or internal catalytic combustion chamber. Just chunk a log in the front door, the smoke goes out the pipe.
My cabin is a "Log Cabin" with the external walls constructed out of Landscape timbers that are stacked and is approximately 550 sq. ft. I plan on placing the stove in a corner. I plan on placing 2 x 4's, flat side against exterior walls, place some type of insulation in the framing, place cement board over that and some type of roofing metal on top of all that. I'M NOT WANTING ANY FIRES.
I'm wanting to know: What type of insulation should I use? Or am I going over thinking this project? The metal is also going to be used as a part of the decor and be used to display antique cast iron cookware. But I'm wanting to protect the wood wall.
Any idea's, anyone? :confused:
Re: What to use?????
1 - [B]Do not[/B] use 2x4, or wood of any kind.
2 - [B]Do not[/B] use insulation of any kind.
The point of a heat barrier is just that, to deflect heat away from combustible materials. For this reason, you want to use materials suited to the job. Use metal studs (laid flat) to attach your cement backer board to, then apply tile over that. You need to leave at least 1" air gap between the combustible wall and the back of your heat barrier (provided by the metal studs.
It would not be a bad idea to contact your local building department and ask them what their requirements for installing a wood burning stove are. Also check with your insurer, as they may have guidelines and/or restrictions that will affect your coverage.
Re: What to use?????
From a design standpoint, corrugated galvanized steel roofing material would probably look pretty good.
If you have access to a sheet metal shop (such as an HVAC contractor might have), have some galvanized "Z" strips made up, 1" for each leg and the middle part of the Z. So 1", 90°, 1", 90°, 1". (Should be slightly thicker than the roofing; not sure what the ideal gauge would be.) The strips should be as wide as you plan to have the roofing. Place these horizontally on the wall and fasten the roofing to it (the corrugations will allow vertical airflow). You can use the same method to add a second layer of roofing, but for the second set of Z strips, offset them up at least 6" higher than the first set to prevent conductive heat transfer to the wall. This will provide at least 1" of space between the sheets and 1" of space from the inner sheet to the wall. The whole works will project about 3" from the wall.
I don't think insulation will be necessary, and may prevent proper airflow necessary to cool the space. My method above won't require cement board either.
By the way, galvanized metal should not be exposed to direct flame or extreme heat (over about 750 degrees) where people are present. Oxidation of zinc can release harmful gases. Don't used galvanized pipe on woodstoves.
(EDIT: If you search for the issue of using galvanized, pipe, you'll see a lot of "I've never had a problem with it" type of posts. That's an invalid argument. What is a valid argument is to understand that the melting point of zinc is around 780 F, at which temperature rapid oxidation begins to occur, and the melting point of zinc oxide is over 3500 F. However, vaporization and oxidation can occur at lower average temperatures due to absolute molecular energy, the same way a glass of water can evaporate at room temperature. Any time the pipe is hot enough to cause oxidation of zinc, it's hot enough to release harmful levels of zinc oxide vapor. For that matter, there is potential for release of zinc oxide vapor at room temperature, though at concentrations far below any cause for alarm.)