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    You mentioned in one of you posts having an underground oil tank. After reading one of the articles on this site about an oil tank leak, I am literally losing sleep over my 1000 gallon underground tank. It's currently not leaking, but who knows when? Not sure exactly, but pretty darn old by my best guess (trying to find records from previous owner).

    Have you decided what to do about yours?

    I was thinking of calling a heating company to see about digging up or filling the tank and converting to natural gas.

    Have you gotten any good advice/cost estimates?

    I'm not sure where you're located - I'm in central PA.
    Thank you!
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    FW: light scaping Message originally sent private message 11-30-2008 05:14 PM

    [QUOTE=Blue RidgeParkway]waltdeckhouse,

    see you're step out and decided to join in on the low brow common denominator so go right ahead. had already querried a favor from a patomac-based light scaping spe******t (as a favor - as in free to you) to consult and guide your design vision and source higher end stuff below reg wholesale so you could DIY, but you can do it for yourself.

    will point you again to Focus Industries for expanding beyond kent's limited experiences with such lighting and biases (crud fixtures)almost everything in LV is equally available in line can also spec 25' leads.

    if going LV get isolated transformers burial wet location grade if you're going to supply with the retaining walls, along cascading topography etc.

    finally, some day someone other than you (kids growing up or wife) might be doing snow removal, lawn care, gardening, cleaning fixtures, changing bulbs, and with the terrain of the front either damage, kids playing, driving, standing water, ice, etc. exposure potential to line voltage is possible - for that reason alone (topography and others at some time doing work - remember how careful you were as an adolescent doing chores?) i'd go with LV.

    i'd also stay away from the usual pathway lights for both areas - they are major trip hazards and you've got a toddler you don't want him/her poking their eye out. in the retaining wall and steps consider in-the-wall lights on the street sides of your paths not house sides and in-the-walls louvered down. with the trees and architecture the sidewalk might look better with strategically placed [U]bollards[/U] within landscape vingettes you can also make your own architecturally incorporated fixtures and mount post kits LV.

    quick link to one of focus's catalogs for ideas about what is REALLY out there note adjustable heights for the bollards and you can also personalize with house numbers [url][/url]

    you MUST match your transformer for what you install plus no more than 10% after adjusted for voltage drop if you don't and run "hot" you'll burn out your lights if you run halogens or xenons they can and will EXPLODE. you've made similar mistakes with your kitchen LV. do use SPT cable. I recommend you use the professional grade you won't find that at a big box but will at a lighting supply. I RECOMMEND 10/2 minimum for your wiring loops and I do HIGHLY recommend that you use the LOOP method as a back-up. any thing permanent and not in your garden area. you should NOT use piercing connectors for anything permanent but you DO want the direct burial and in water classification and you DO WANT the self-sealing capabilities, temperature ratings (high and low) and the UV resistance and chemical resistance of the SPT insulation. [/QUOTE]
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    Can anyone share their experience of combining a new geothermal heat/cooling system with a new well? Can the well water be used for the ground loop?
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